Peloponnese

Day two finds us on the road heading to Laconia prefecture and, more specifically, one of Greece’s most romantic destinations – Monemvasia.

Whether it is your first time in Monemvasia or not, the view of the imposing rock is always a breathtaking spectacle. We leave the car outside of the medieval castle town (vehicles are not permitted) and walk along the main cobblestoned road, the Byzantines’ Central Avenue. It doesn’t feel like October. All of the little shops to our left and right are open and buzzing with life. Visitors are enjoying a meal at the restaurants, the locals are having a laugh and a spirited chat, while cats appear out of nowhere at that exact moment when you are photographing a pretty spot and inadvertently pose for the camera.

Here, the secret is to do away with a map and simply first wander through the Upper Town then head down to the Lower town and the sprawling square. Shortly before our departure, we take a morning walk along the sea wall and drink in the iodine-rich air, admiring for just a little longer the fortress town that leaves a lasting impression on every visitor. Monemvasia, we will return. That’s for sure!

Day three of our trip and the landscape on our route starts to appear somewhat wild and sparse. We start to approach the coast of Mani, a land which we love a great deal. We spot Maniot tower houses here and there along our route, assuring us that we are approaching today’s destination.

Our first stop is the Diros Caves, one of the world’s most unique caves. Petros, who is skippering the boat taking us through the cave, makes jokes and offers up informative tidbits, making the trip an especially interesting one.

The next stop is Areopolis whose bright bougainvillea and attractive bars blend in harmoniously with the archetypal Maniot architecture. We will definitely return here this evening to sample a cocktail or two.

We head towards Limeni with its stone-built tower houses. Time to sit down and have something to eat and take lots of photographs. The sunset has us looking out to sea, hypnotised by the sun as it slowly descends towards the horizon.

It’s day four and we’re bursting with energy! We leave Laconia prefecture behind us and head towards Messinia. Our first stop is the little harbour in Kardamyli, while our second stop is Aquarella Bar, one of the most appealing cafes in the area, where we indulge in coffee with a view. We head up to Old Kardamyli to take photographs of the traditional tower houses. This is Messinian Mani after all! It’s time to get back in the car and head to Messinia’s capital Kalamata. On the way, we meet a lady named Efstathia, who caught our attention from afar as she was knitting the old-school way, with a distaff and spindle.

The cosmopolitan capital is visible from a distance. Our first stop is the Equestrian Club of Kalamata where we had a one-of-a-kind experience. We rode horses in the sea and along the length of the beach. The spectacle was truly magical. Nicholas, who heads the club, insisted we stay. He had prepared a big lunch spread for family and friends and wanted us to join him. We couldn’t refuse. After all, this is what Messinian hospitality is all about!

Kalamata has evolved significantly in recent years. We take a walk along Navarinou, the city’s coastal road though we know full well that, in Autumn, the place to be is Aristomenous Square, which is brimming with endless cafes and bars, along with the restaurants on 23^rd March Square. The city is filled with people, particularly students who manage to keep it young and vibrant. As the sun starts to set, we’re ready to take on the capital’s nightlife scene.

It’s day five and we’re marveling at the sunrise over the Gialova wetland, which is situated right next to Voidokilia, one of the country’s most stunning beaches. Today, the beach has been taken over by athletes participating in the #NavarinoChallenge, who are fortunate enough to be able to run across the sand and take in this enchanting scene.

We decide to take a stroll through the picturesque seaside town of Pylos before heading to Methoni Castle, where we take photographs with a view of the Bourtzi. It’s time to stop for a coffe break at Methoni’s little harbour then, in the evening, we drive up to the remote village of Vlachopoulo. There, together with the local Women’s Cooperative, we learn how to make local dishes such as lalaggia, lalaggides with grape must, and fried olives. We are in Messinia, after all, which is renowned for its extra virgin olive oil.

It’s day six of our trip and time to take in a little more greenery. We head towards Neda River to take a dip. The trail that leads to a waterfall is delightful. We took a dip in the cool water and it proved rejuvenating.

Time is marching on though and Ilia prefecture awaits. Our next stop is Kaïafas Lake. The peace that radiates from the lake is exactly what we need to relax and wind down after an intense day. A little further along, we spot Kaïafas’ huge beach with its pine forest, abandoned railway station and train tracks which pass close to the sea. It’s a superb sight and the setting sun adds to the dreamy atmosphere.

Day seven finds us on the road to Ancient Olympia. Here, somewhere between the Temple of Hera and the Philippeion, we chill out as we watch people rush past us and brown leaves drop languidly from the trees.

Back in the car and we’re on our way to Arcadia, the centre of the Peloponnese. The landscape changes completely and, finally, we feel as if Autumn has arrived. Trees dressed in bright yellow leaves welcome us and we stop for a while to take some photos.

The road leads us to the charming town of Dimitsana, where we linger over coffee at one of the cafes, sample local dishes and pay a visit to the Open Air Water-Power Museum. Dimitsana is well known for its flowing waters.

Day eight of our road trip is dedicated to Arcadia’s small towns.

We start our village-hopping in quaint Karytaina with its castle at the peak of a hill. We head towards Stemnitsa for our first coffee of the day and continue on to peaceful Zatouna.

Day nine on the road and today our explorations start in Vytina! It may be a weekday but the town’s little streets are bustling with life and aromas from the tavernas are tickling our nostrils. One of the highlights of the area is Othon’s park or forest, which is situated just a few kilometres from the small town. It’s a peaceful little oasis with tall trees.

Shortly before our departure, we take the Road of Love and head towards Stymphalia Lake and the Environment Museum of Stymphalia. As the lakebed was completely dry, we were able to walk across it and take some fantastic photos.

The day ends in the best possible way. Just outside of Nemea, we sample exquisite wines at Semeli winery and wander through seemingly infinite vineyards.

On day 10, our final day, we board a little train that departs from Diakofto village and reaches the town of Kalavryta, where we take a stroll. For some reason, the town’s cobblestoned streets bring to mind a wintery scene and we cannot wait for the weather to finally cool down.